Basic Photography Course

For color slides with fluorescent light, a daylight

type of film with the appropriate filter is best. Tungsten
film usually produces slides with too much blue or green
when made with fluorescent light.

As discussed in chapter 3, the use of filters for color

photography helps to overcome the deficiency of red
light in fluorescent lamps. Always consult the

Photo-Lab Index for the best film filter combinations to

use.

Pictures Outdoors at Night

Outdoor night scenes usually include large areas of

darkness broken by smaller areas of light from
buildings, signs, and streetlights. Pictures of outdoor
scenes are quite easy to make because good results are
obtainable over a wide range of exposures. Using short
exposures emphasizes well-lit areas by preserving the

highlight detail, while the shadow areas are dark
because of underexposure. Long exposures help retain
the detail of the dark areas, while highlight detail is lost
because of overexposure.

Large, dark areas in night scenes make it difficult to

make accurate exposure meter readings from your
camera position. The best meter reading results are
obtained when you take closeup readings of important
scene areas.

Color outdoor pictures at night can be made on

either daylight or tungsten-type films. Pictures made on
daylight film have a warm, yellow-red appearance.

Those made on tungsten film have a colder more natural
look; however, both films provide pleasing results, so it
is a matter of personal preference which you use.

A good time to make outdoor night color pictures is

just before it gets completely dark. At this time, some

rich blue (or even orange) is in the sky. This deep color
at dusk gives a dramatic background to your pictures.
Neon signs, streetlights, and building lights make bright
subjects for your pictures. At night, right after it stops
raining and everything is still wet, is another good time
to make outdoor pictures. The lights in the scene
produce many colorful reflections on the wet pavement,
adding interest to what may otherwise be a lifeless, dull
picture.

Many buildings look rather ordinary in daylight, but

at night, they are often interestingly lighted. Try

photographing the hangar at night, with the lights on and
the hangar doors open. Also, your ship at night,
especially a rainy night may make a very striking
picture.

Outdoor events that take place at night in a sports

stadium are usually well-lighted and make excellent
subjects for existing light pictures. Most sports stadiums

(as well as streets) are illuminated by mercury-vapor
lamps that look blue-green in color when compared to
tungsten lamps. Your best color pictures made under
mercury-vapor lighting will be shot on daylight color
film, although they will appear bluish green because the
lights are deficient in red.

Tips for existing light photography are as follows:

Carry a flashlight so you can see to make camera

settings.

If you do not have an exposure meter or cannot

get a good reading, bracket your exposure.

Focus carefully; depth of field is shallow at the
wide apertures required for existing light
photography.

When you have a scene illuminated by a
combination of light sources, use the type of
color film recommended for the predominant
light source.

For pictures of fireworks, support your camera
on a tripod, focus at infinity, and aim the camera
toward the sky area where the display will take
place. Open the shutter for several bursts.

ELECTRONIC FLASH LIGHTING

In situations where there is little or no light

available, a portable electronic flash unit is an invaluable
piece of photographic equipment. With fast films and

long exposures, you may be able to shoot existing light
pictures, providing your subject remains still long
enough. Although you can certainly get better lighting
control with elaborate photographic lights, the
simplicity and portability of electronic flash is
unbeatable.

Electronic flash provides an excellent source of

artificial light for exposing black-and-white and color
daylight-balanced film. Light from an electronic flash
unit (strobe) is characterized by softness, short duration,
and color balance, approximating that of daylight.

By measuring the amount of light that actually

reaches an object or scene, you can obtain a numerical
value that can be converted directly into a flash guide
number. The numerical value is the light output rating
of an electronic flash unit measured in beam
candlepower-seconds (BCPS) or more correctly,
effective candlepower-seconds (ECPS).

Every electronic flash unit is assigned a guide

number as a measure of its light output or power. The
higher the guide number, the greater the light output.
Guide numbers for various film speeds are usually

5-30

contents

Basic Photography Course

<- previous page

next page ->


DOFMaster for Windows On-line Depth of Field Calculator DOFMaster for Mobile Devices On-line Depth of Field Table Hyperfocal Distance Chart Articles FAQ Recommended Books Support Contact Links Home As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.	contents <- previous page next page -> For color slides with fluorescent light, a daylight type of film with the appropriate filter is best. Tungsten film usually produces slides with too much blue or green when made with fluorescent light. As discussed in chapter 3, the use of filters for color photography helps to overcome the deficiency of red light in fluorescent lamps. Always consult the Photo-Lab Index for the best film filter combinations to use. Pictures Outdoors at Night Outdoor night scenes usually include large areas of darkness broken by smaller areas of light from buildings, signs, and streetlights. Pictures of outdoor scenes are quite easy to make because good results are obtainable over a wide range of exposures. Using short exposures emphasizes well-lit areas by preserving the highlight detail, while the shadow areas are dark because of underexposure. Long exposures help retain the detail of the dark areas, while highlight detail is lost because of overexposure. Large, dark areas in night scenes make it difficult to make accurate exposure meter readings from your camera position. The best meter reading results are obtained when you take closeup readings of important scene areas. Color outdoor pictures at night can be made on either daylight or tungsten-type films. Pictures made on daylight film have a warm, yellow-red appearance. Those made on tungsten film have a colder more natural look; however, both films provide pleasing results, so it is a matter of personal preference which you use. A good time to make outdoor night color pictures is just before it gets completely dark. At this time, some rich blue (or even orange) is in the sky. This deep color at dusk gives a dramatic background to your pictures. Neon signs, streetlights, and building lights make bright subjects for your pictures. At night, right after it stops raining and everything is still wet, is another good time to make outdoor pictures. The lights in the scene produce many colorful reflections on the wet pavement, adding interest to what may otherwise be a lifeless, dull picture. Many buildings look rather ordinary in daylight, but at night, they are often interestingly lighted. Try photographing the hangar at night, with the lights on and the hangar doors open. Also, your ship at night, especially a rainy night may make a very striking picture. Outdoor events that take place at night in a sports stadium are usually well-lighted and make excellent subjects for existing light pictures. Most sports stadiums (as well as streets) are illuminated by mercury-vapor lamps that look blue-green in color when compared to tungsten lamps. Your best color pictures made under mercury-vapor lighting will be shot on daylight color film, although they will appear bluish green because the lights are deficient in red. Tips for existing light photography are as follows: Carry a flashlight so you can see to make camera settings. If you do not have an exposure meter or cannot get a good reading, bracket your exposure. Focus carefully; depth of field is shallow at the wide apertures required for existing light photography. When you have a scene illuminated by a combination of light sources, use the type of color film recommended for the predominant light source. For pictures of fireworks, support your camera on a tripod, focus at infinity, and aim the camera toward the sky area where the display will take place. Open the shutter for several bursts. ELECTRONIC FLASH LIGHTING In situations where there is little or no light available, a portable electronic flash unit is an invaluable piece of photographic equipment. With fast films and long exposures, you may be able to shoot existing light pictures, providing your subject remains still long enough. Although you can certainly get better lighting control with elaborate photographic lights, the simplicity and portability of electronic flash is unbeatable. Electronic flash provides an excellent source of artificial light for exposing black-and-white and color daylight-balanced film. Light from an electronic flash unit (strobe) is characterized by softness, short duration, and color balance, approximating that of daylight. By measuring the amount of light that actually reaches an object or scene, you can obtain a numerical value that can be converted directly into a flash guide number. The numerical value is the light output rating of an electronic flash unit measured in beam candlepower-seconds (BCPS) or more correctly, effective candlepower-seconds (ECPS). Every electronic flash unit is assigned a guide number as a measure of its light output or power. The higher the guide number, the greater the light output. Guide numbers for various film speeds are usually 5-30 contents Basic Photography Course <- previous page next page ->	As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
	WWW.DOFMASTER.COM © 2006 Don Fleming. All rights reserved.